My grandfather told me that an elderly man from the village sat roadside with a gun waiting for inspectors to come… Word got out that there was a crazy man with a gun hunting people, so the inspectors stayed away, a winemaker named Gino recounted over drinks one afternoon in Buje, a town in northwest Istria.

We were discussing the historical importance of Istrian craft distilling. Naturally, one begins that saga with the local distilled spirit, rakija, or what is locally called trapa, and he was trying to express the drink’s historical importance in the area. The story was set in the period of Fascist Italian rule when families would distill small volumes of trapa in the forest to evade the police. They risked fines and jail for doing so, and so apparently, some community members were compelled to sit roadside to intimidate would be interrupters. The story vividly conveyed the sense of how much locals value trapa, and that it holds a significant place in the region’s history and culture. But this potent spirit embodies more than just a traditional beverage. It is a symbol of the region’s resilience and cultural heritage. The intertwining of economic practices, borderland history, and Istrian culture have sustained its production for generations.

trapa’s economic significance

Grape cultivation and winemaking have long been central to Istria’s economy and culture. Historically, the production of trapa was a practical solution to utilize the leftover grape pomace after the winemaking process that discarding would otherwise pollute the local environment – not just the soil, but potentially the groundwater. So, the relationship between winemaking and trapa distilling is a symbiotic one, creating a closed-loop system that exemplifies locals’ sustainable approach to agriculture.

Distilling over the winter months has always been an important leisure activity in villages. Families distill this grape mash into a strong spirit, both for personal consumption and as a tradable commodity within their communities. At various historical moments, the spirit has been bartered, sold in small volumes within villages as moonshine, or exported to nearby Italian markets, offering a financial lifeline when other economic opportunities were scarce or crises appeared. In Yugoslavia, Tito ‘bought a peaceful border’ as locals say, in that the rules on cross-border commerce were rarely enforced. Instead, families in this area enjoyed the freedom to do essentially as much business over the border in Italy as they could arrange. So, much wine and spirits flowed north to Trieste, Muggia, and other nearby Italian towns.

The transition out of Yugoslavia in the 1990s brought significant changes for spirits production. A new border regime slowed exports, but also, socialist-era firms began to collapse, and the rules on private production were lifted entirely. Soon, many winemaking families emerged as business leaders, and grew to be cultural symbols of the region’s culinary and farming heritage. Heavy investments in the tourist sector expanded business opportunities. However, this process also introduced new regulatory frameworks and tax regimes that impacted traditional practices, where increasing bureaucratic costs and complexifying administration intimidated some distilling families out of the formal market.

taxing tradition

In describing his experience of the changes, another winemaker with whom I regularly visited said that, ‘It started with just having to show a receipt [for sales tax]. Then it was stamps [state bottle taxes]. Then there were rules about getting chemical analyses from different institutes, and we had to pay for those analyses. Then there was a commission to taste for organopoleptic properties [like that for wine], which was obligatory. Then, we had to make special “marke” [brands] for each kind of alcohol so each could be issued its own markica [holographic labels that one glues by hand over the top of the bottle neck that have lot numbers according to the marke] and register each one for tax purposes… it was just too much for the small volume of trapa that we sold’. A similar evolution happened in the wine sector, but the taxes were less for wine due to its lower alcohol content. Moreover, the inspections regime, at least in Croatia’s early years, was much more stringent on distilled spirits than wine. 

People feared inspectors issuing fines for not complying to the new rules that they were having a difficult time keeping up with. Although the concept of ‘sin taxes’ has been around for eons, generations of Istrians had grown accustomed to this permissive environment for producing wine and spirits. So, the new regulatory regimes surrounding them upset the local economy and organization of daily life. The result was that many families felt it was too costly to keep up their distilling traditions and decided to turn their attention to winemaking.

The emergence of craft distilleries

The Istrian people have an entrepreneurial spirit. Despite the initial exodus from the distilling sector, families are returning to it again now more than ever, and Istrian craft distilling is ramping back up. Local craft distillers are building on the successes of the wine sector to fine-tune their image and are increasingly earning recognition for their spirits. Finally, after years of changes, the tax regime for the spirits sector is stabilizing into a straightforward one that local producers can navigate to create brands and build customer bases. The road to this point may have been a winding one, but craft distillers are the embodiment of the persistence of the Istrian spirit.

Dr. Robin Smith is an anthropologist and Research Fellow at Copenhagen Business School on a project, AnthroTax (funded by the European Union’s Horizon 2020 research and innovation program under the Marie Skłodowska-Curie grant agreement no. 101026736). She has been visiting and writing about Istria since 2005. You can learn more about her work here.

The post Exploring Istrian Craft Distilling Through The Ages appeared first on Total Croatia.

As Poslovni Dnevnik/Ana Roksandic writes, one of the most certain ways for a tourist destination to catch the eye of would-be guests is undoubtedly personalised experiences and the sale of truly authentic products. Although many of Croatia’s coastal towns can and do offer this, many don’t manage to make a living from tourism for longer than the duration of the typical summer season.

Not so up in Istria. On that beautiful peninsula, they managed to take it all one step further, becoming a regional destination that lives on tourism – an impressive 300 days a year.

Istrian production of wine, olive oil and truffles saves the day

A panel-discussion “How Istria boasts what many desire – a season outside of the season” was held, and the sustainability of Istria in the context of year-round tourism was discussed. In it, the results of the cooperation of all participants were presented, as were ways to improve the tourist offer. Gea Kariž from Mastercard, Denis Ivošević from the Istria County Tourist Board, Jadranka Gojtanić from Maistra and Mladen Draguzet from the Istra Adventure agency were all present.

The panel was organised on the occasion of the continuation of cooperation between Mastercard and the Istria County Tourist Board through a marketing campaign that will be launched at the beginning of March on the markets of Germany, the Netherlands and the Czech Republic.

“Istria has perhaps the most sustainable tourism in the entire Mediterranean. Almost 30 years ago, Istria had 330 abandoned villages in its interior, and today, thanks to the various products we developed, including wines, oils, truffles and prosciutto, 200 villages have been saved from being lost. This is the result of our idea of sustainable development, which was based on the return of the population to the central part of this region,” said Ivošević.

Ivošević emphasised that people returned and started families in the central part of Istria. They also opened small family hotels, agricultural tourism businesses, wineries and of course – olive oil mills. This was a great return after the exodus from the peninsula that took place in the tumultuous years of WWII and its immediate aftermath.

Until this great return occurred, which happened about thirty years ago, in Istria, just like elsewhere along the coast, the tourist offer was based only on the coastline. Today, things have altered dramatically, and among the main investors in the interior of Istria are Leopold Botteri and Siniša Šare, who are behind the San Canzian project.

This is an authentic luxury hotel with 28 rooms and suites, located in the medieval village of Mužolini Donji, near Buje and Grožnjan, at the foot of an imposing fourteenth century Venetian fortress. “We came across an old neglected village, fell in love at first sight and entered into this project without a second thought,” the pair revealed.

Their and numerous other authentic Istrian offers are both unique and tempting for tourists, and the panel discussion wanted to see how to further position Istria as a region that successfully attracts tourists all year round.

Small local producers enjoy support

The Istrian model of access to tourism is largely based on the support of local, small Istrian production and entrepreneurs. This includes the mutual harmony of all participants, which leads to wildly successful tourism results. One of these local businessmen, Mladen Draguzet, the owner of an adventure tourism agency, says:

“Nowadays we work 300 days a year. Here in Istria, it is really the most beautiful in the pre- and post-season, and what’s special is that we offer arrangements in which tourists who have various interests can enjoy the whole year. It’s often the case that many guests initially come to us for team building, and soon return with their families for a holiday.”

The post Rescued Villages & Extended Seasons – Istrian Production Saves The Day appeared first on Total Croatia.

Where to even start, though? As Croatia’s leading tourist region, Istria is incredibly diverse and packed with content. You’ll find just about anything there, from the rich history and tradition to quirky little towns, stunning beaches, and all kinds of activities. And since it would not be right to talk about Istria without it, here’s an honorable mention of the magnificent Brijuni. Now that we got that out of the way, let’s jump right in – these are our favourite places in Istria where you can take kids on adventures!

Istria Full of Adventure: Best Active Vacation Spots for Kids

Let’s start with the obvious – waterparks! There are two big ones in Istria – Aquacolors and Istralandia. They both offer so much for little and slightly more grown-up adventure seekers. There are slides, waves, rivers, games, anything you can imagine. They are located near Poreč, and while you could in theory visit both in the same day, due to their size we do recommend dedicating an entire day to each.

The natural progression from here would probably be to move on to the popular adventure parks. There are quite a few of those in Istria. They offer high ropes and courses in the “jungle”, something they call a 2G swing, even zorbing and paintball. If you’re looking for an active day out, you can’t really go wrong with any of these. Just make sure no one is afraid of heights!

Finally, let us play the devil’s advocate and suggest something that might not be on the very top of any mom’s bucket list – some high-speed fun! Istra Kart at Motodrom Poreč has been operating and upgrading the offer for almost twenty years. Their offer includes go-karting, cross-karting, quad-biking and paintball. They do group tours and events, and there is a sports bar right next to the track for you to keep an eye on your little and big kids alike.

And Now for Something Special…

Did you know that In the Cretaceous period, 80 to 140 million years ago, dinosaurs roamed the Istrian peninsula? Diver Dario Boscarolli from Monfalcone accidentally discovered a site of bones on the seabed near Bale in 1992. Those are the first and so far the only discovered remains of dinosaur bones in the entire Mediterranean area. The bones indicate the existence of at least a dozen species of dinosaurs. One of them is a brachiosaur, a herbivore, one of the largest that existed on earth, whose body length was 20 to 25 meters, and the length of the neck was almost 10 meters.

Dinopark Funtana is a theme park with life-size dinosaurs. It is located in an old quarry, and it’s got moving dinosaurs which you can even ride. The shows and entertainment activities visually and acoustically bring to life these unusual creatures that ruled the earth for millions of years. In the show arena, there are daily performances of the Variety Circus and the Magic Show. There is also a dino-cinema, a dino-shooting range, a children’s train, and trampolines. You could also enjoy the daily performances of the Flying Devils group, who love riding a motorcycle on a wire at a height of 25 m. We can honestly say that this one tops my personal list of the best places to take kids on vacation in Istria (mostly because I would love to go myself).

Kids Friendly Resorts in Istria

Is your heart telling you to go to Istria, but the grandparents are busy? Fear not; there truly is something for everyone there. And as the colder months are slowly approaching even here in Croatia, taking a little break in one of Istria’s kids friendly resorts might not be a bad idea at all.

A great place to start could be the hotels selected by Miss7Mama, which offer all-inclusive service and spacious and comfortable family rooms with four to six beds. The combination of a relaxing atmosphere, a safe environment, and plenty of entertainment will get you the rest that you need, while the kids will love this unforgettable adventure.

Family hotel Amarin in Rovinj just might have it all. There are babysitting services and a hair salon available. There are playgrounds, a pool complex, wellness and spa, restaurants and snack bars, playrooms, the Amarin Kids Club – something will keep the little ones entertained. The hotel also includes 4 restaurants with special menus for children. The outdoor pool complex includes 4 pools for parents, children, and babies. The old town of Rovinj is only 4 km away.

It’s All About Playgrounds, Pools, and Pets

Well-designed playgrounds and age-appropriate equipment make Girandella Valamar Collection Resort perfect for kids of any age. This entire resort was designed with families in mind. The little ones can hang out with their parents or with professionals, while teenagers can find privacy and people their own age. Spacious family rooms and suites are well-equipped and come with everything children might need. I mean, there are slides and climbing walls right there in the lobby. There are both outdoor and indoor pools there, with all kinds of fun equipment and effects.

Finally, the famous Hotel Park in Punat on Krk came to life a few years ago with a completely new family concept. It offers a diverse entertainment program and is only a few minutes away from the beach. There is a large outdoor pool with two slides, as well as the Falky Land playground with a covered playground and a direct view of the park. It is also worth mentioning the attractive ambient family playground with a cinema and its own stage for performances, as well as a rich sports and entertainment program. And the best part – your pets will love it here, too!

The post Best Places to Take Kids on Vacation in Istria appeared first on Total Croatia.

• Welcome!
• How to get to Fažana and get around
• 5 things not to miss
• Where to stay?
• Where to eat?
• Top 3 day trips from Fažana
• 5 things you didn’t know about Fažana

Welcome!

Fažana is the biggest settlement on the otherwise sparsely populated stretch of the Istrian coast between Pula and Rovinj. It’s neighbouring Pula and sits right across the famous Brijuni islands. Unlike many Istrian towns, Fažana is not overwhelmed by tourism and is still a relatively quiet place. If you are looking for an unpretentious holiday with an unmistakable Istrian touch, Fažana is for you.

How to get to Fažana and get around

Plane

Fažana’s closest airport is Pula’s. If not driving yourself, a taxi ride will take about 20 minutes. Just make sure to get a licensed taxi, as local drivers are prone to scamming tourists. It’s possible to reach Fažana from Pula by public transport too – there is a shuttle bus from the airport to Pula’s bus station. See below for more info.

Road

If coming by car, best to take Istria’s “Y” motorway system, connecting the peninsula to Rijeka, Zagreb, Slovenia and Italy. Exit it at Vodnjan south, turn left onto road 21, then right onto Galižanska cesta, leading you straight to Fažana.

Looking for a fast, reliable and trouble-free transfer to or from Fažana? Contact TC transfer partner Adriatic Transfers for your one-stop solution.

There are no intercity bus lines serving Fažana, so you will have to travel to Pula if coming by bus. A local bus line connects Fažana and Pula, starting from Giardini, Pula’s main square. Additionally, a number of bus lines connect it to the bus station, and by foot it’ll take about 20 minutes. See the webpage of Pula’s public transport company.

Fažana itself is easily manageable by foot. However, having a car or a bike will help you explore the surrounding area more.

5 things not to miss in Fažana

Promenade

One of Fažana’s main attractions is its kilometres long promenade, running up to the neighbouring Peroj village. With a view of the Adriatic Sea and Brijuni islands, it makes for a great walk or a bike ride and offers some spectacular sunsets. Also, make sure to check out the water sports offer Fažana is known for. Some of the options are renting a boat or a jet ski, taking a boat ride around the local archipelago, or joining the local fishermen for a fishing experience. See Fažana’s tourist board page, linked below, for more info.

Hidrobaza Beach

At Fažana’s southern end, next to Štinjan village, you will find Hidrobaza, a popular beach. The place has a peculiar history, as in times when fascist Italy ruled Istria, it served as an aeroplane base. More precisely, as a seaplane base, hence its name.

It was destroyed in a bombing before the end of World War 2, but some of the old infrastructure is still visible. Nowadays, it’s a place where locals and visitors go to swim and relax.

Punta Christo Fort

Austrian-Hungarian Empire ruled Istria until the end of World War I and made Pula its chief military harbour. Obviously, the Empire built dozens of fortresses in the area around Pula, and one of the biggest and best-preserved is Punta Christo fort. It sits on the peninsula of the same name, located south of the aforementioned Hidrobaza beach. Until 2019, it was known as the place for summer music festivals. The festivals have sadly left Istria for the time being, but the monumental fortress is well worth visiting. Be sure to check out the lighthouse at the tip of the peninsula, and the hidden beaches around the fortress make for an intimate swim.

Olive oil

In Roman times, Fažana was known as the place where the best olive oil was produced. The remains of ancient oil mills found here testify to that. Today, the area around Fažana is still where some of the world’s best oils come from. Especially renowned is the nearby town of Vodnjan, also called the Croatian capital of olive oil.

The producers to check out for tasting and shopping are Cadenela, Brist, Meloto, Chiavalon, and Agroprodukt’s Salvela brand (this company also runs a very good winery too). For those who wish to learn more, some of the aforementioned producers offer guided tours through their olive groves.

Ulysses Theatre

Founded by famous Hollywood Croatian-born actor Rade Šerbedžija and writer Borislav Vujčić in 2001, this festival sees the abandoned fortresses and other locations on Brijuni islands turned into stages for classic plays such as King Lear or Who’s Afraid of Virginia Woolf. The plays usually happen throughout July and August, so if you find yourself in Fažana at the time, best to check out what’s on the programme.

Where to stay in Fažana

Currently, the only major provider of accommodation in town is the three-star hotel Istra. Currently, an old Austro-Hungarian villa, San Lorenzo, is being refurbished into a 5-star hotel. So, your best bet for finding where to stay is to check the offer of guesthouses, villas, boutique hotels and apartments. Camping is also possible in the area – two big campsites are Pineta and Bi Village Holiday Center. Both are located a bit outside of the town’s centre and offer mobile homes for rent.

Where to eat in Fažana

For seafood, try konoba Feral or restaurant Officina del Pesce. Another great place is konoba Alla Beccaccia, more meat-oriented, in the nearby village Valbandon. For simpler food, try Arboretum pub, known for burgers, and La Bodega.

Top 3 day trips from Fažana

Brijuni islands

One of the most famous Istrian attractions is a short boat ride away from Fažana. This national park was one of the first tourist places in Croatia, serving as a resort for wealthy Austrians until the end of World War I.

After World War II, the place became the summer residence of communist Yugoslavia’s president-for-life, Tito, where he received guests ranging from famous politicians like Nasser or Nehru, to movie stars like Sophia Loren and Elizabeth Taylor. The place is open for visitors today, with its parks and Tito’s museum among its main attractions. And don’t forget about the Ulysses Theatre.

Pula

Istria’s biggest city is less than half an hour away by bus so it wouldn’t make much sense to miss it. The main attraction there is the Roman arena, one of the best-preserved in the world, and a number of other Roman remains scattered throughout the city. Make sure to check out the offer of events in Pula – apart from Pula Film Festival, the Arena also hosts big-name concerts and events such as staged gladiator fights.

Rovinj

The most popular Istrian city is only half an hour away by car. An old Italian town, with colorful houses located on a peninsula, it makes for one of the most romantic places on the Croatian coast. Make sure to visit the church of Saint Euphemia and take a walk in the Golden Cape park forest.

3 things you didn’t know about Fažana

Mate Parlov

A statue found on Fažana’s promenade is dedicated to Croatia’s greatest boxer of all times, Mate Parlov. Born in Split, he moved to Pula as a kid. His achievements include winning the Olympic gold medal, and winning European and world championships both as a professional and as an amateur, all in light heavyweight category. He was also the first professional world champion from a communist country. After retiring from boxing, he first moved back to Pula, then to Fažana, where he spent his last days.

Sardine

As mentioned, Fažana is a fishing town, and the most important catch is one of the most modest species of fish: sardine (or pilchard). There is even an academy dedicated to the fish, which organizes events such as a school of fish salting, a school of preparing sardine dishes, and a festival of fish dishes. Most are held in tourist season so check their webpage for the ongoing programmes.

Skateboarding Film Festival

How unique is a movie festival dedicated solely to skateboarding? Fažana’s August Šenoa skateboarding club started Vladimir Skate festival in 2011, and by now it grew into a three-day event. Held in late September, it showcases movies, photos and art installations concerning skateboarding. A skate park is also under construction. For more info, check August Šenoa club’s Facebook page.

More information

Fažana’s tourist board website

Home

To follow the latest news from Istria, check out the dedicated TCN page.

The post Fažana in a Page: Gateway to Brijuni, Fishing, Olives appeared first on Total Croatia.

• Welcome!
• How to get to Medulin and get around
• 5 things not to miss
• Where to stay?
• Where to eat?
• Top 5 day trips from Medulin
• 5 things you didn’t know about Medulin

Welcome!

A couple of decades ago, Medulin was a sleepy fishing village. In fact, it kind of still is during the winter months. Then the town turned to tourism, and by now became one of the most visited places in Croatia! In Istria, only Poreč and Rovinj attract more visitors yearly. Unlike those two, however, Medulin doesn’t have a rich cultural heritage and is known primarily as a resort place. This is the place to be if you want a simple, undemanding holiday. However, if you want more than that, you will find plenty to entertain yourself with.

How to get to Medulin and get around

Plane

Medulin is very easily accessible from Pula’s airport. It is only 15 minutes away from it by road, and getting a taxi from the airport is an option. Make sure to get licensed taxis, such as Cammeo or Bolt / Uber, as local taxi drivers are notorious for being prone to scamming gullible tourists. There is also a shuttle bus service, which will take you to Pula’s bus station. More info on how to get to Medulin from there follows.

Other flying options are Rijeka or Trieste’s airports. Keep in mind that it will take at least 2 hours of additional travel by road from either to Medulin. If you fly to Trieste, you will also need to pass two international borders.

Road

Medulin sits close to the southern end of Istria’s “Y” motorway. Once you exit it at the toll booths, just keep going straight along road 5119. Then, make a left turn on the roundabout on Medulinska street.

Looking for a fast, reliable and trouble-free transfer to or from Medulin? Contact TC transfer partner Adriatic Transfers for your one-stop solution.

Medulin is not served by intercity bus lines, so you will have to travel to Pula if coming by bus. There are good local bus connections from Pula, and the line’s starting point is, handily, Pula’s bus station. For info on the timetable, check the local public transport operator’s webpage.

Boat

If coming with boat or yacht, you can dock it at Medulin’s marina. Another marina is located in the nearby village of Pomer.

When in Medulin, it helps to have a car or a bike. Some of the places most worth a visit are not so easily accessible by foot. The town itself is a small place and easy to get around. There is also a tourist train connecting the two local campsites, and passing along the town’s hotels as well.

5 things not to miss in Medulin

The beaches

Perhaps the best thing about Medulin is the variety of landscapes it offers. Its most popular beach is Bijeca, located right next to the central part of the town. Bijeca beach is famous for being one of the few sand beaches in Istria.

Only a couple of hundred meters away from Bijeca, in Arena campsite, the beaches are much more like Dalmatian ones. You can enjoy the pebbles, rocks, and pines towering over the sea there.

Marlera peninsula, a bit outside of the town, is another story altogether. Its green fields bordering rocky beaches make it look more like Ireland than anything in Croatia. This is a place to be if you prefer a bit of solitude – and swimming naked. One special treat is Levan islet, close to Marlera, accessible by boat taxi, boasting a sand beach and one of the most spectacular sunsets in Istria.

Yet the most stunning place around Medulin deserves its own entry – right below!

Kamenjak

The southernmost point of Istria is cape Kamenjak. Still somewhat of a secret, it’s a place with flora and fauna so rich it is a protected area. It is located just across the bay of Medulin. However, it’s a deep bay, so it will take some 15 minutes by car to get there. The entry point to Kamenjak is in the Premantura village. Please note that an entry fee applies for motor vehicles, and watch out on the bumpy roads! Biking or hiking is also a good idea. Kamenjak is worth visiting for its scenery alone, as it offers not only the best view of Medulin and its archipelago, but also of Kvarner bay, the vastness of Adriatic Sea, and, on fair days, even of Velebit mountain.

It is also a popular place for swimmers – if your thing is pebbles, rocks, and jumping off cliffs into crystal clear waters, this is a place to be. Just keep an eye on possible strong currents and never go swimming on windy days accompanied by big waves! Guided educational tours are also available – more info on the official web page. For refreshments, check out the charming Safari bar, located almost at the very tip of the cape.

Archeological park Vižula

This peninsula, located a bit outside of the town centre and easily reachable by foot, would be a nice place for a walk on its own. The thing that makes it really special are the Roman ruins found there! Seems like Medulin used to be a tourist spot back in ancient times as well. The most important finding on the site is the luxurious Roman villa. It used to be a part of a bigger settlement – so far the biggest structure unearthed is a 30-meters long pier. The area has been turned into a park, which offers VR tours of the site. For more info, check the park’s website.

Outdoor activities

If you get bored with lazying on a beach, Medulin will have plenty to offer. Consider boat trips – a sea trip with a view of Medulin bay and the archipelago will make for a memorable experience. Medulin Excursions and Tajana & Zlatni Rat are the most renowned providers. Stand-up paddling is also a popular option. Check Metta Float SUP Tours, which offer programs such as SUP yoga and night-glow tour. The area around Medulin is also known for windsurfing – Tsunami Windsurfing can help with that. As much as Kamenjak is rich in flora and fauna, so is the underwater world around it, so you might want to try snorkeling – check out diving centre Shark for that.

Much like the rest of Istria, Medulin has many marked bike trails. A big thing in Medulin is horseback riding – check out Istria Star Ranch, Libora equestrian club, or Samy’s Ranch for that. The last one also offers activities such as quad safari and paintball. For more of that, go to Adrenalin Park Medulin.

Medulin even has a small airport so panoramic flights are also available.

EatIstria

Istria’s most renowned cooking classes and wine&food tours provider, run by the author of this article and his partner, is located close to Medulin. Wine tours happen around the peninsula, as Medulin itself is not a winemaking area.

The cooking classes we do in Scuola, our cooking studio located in an olive grove in the countryside outside of Medulin. We teach Istrian dishes, traditional and modern, from pasta, through fish, up to truffles. If you want to experience how locals eat and bring home some culinary knowledge, Scuola is a place to be.

Where to stay in Medulin

As the town’s economy relies mostly on tourism, plenty of apartments and private houses are readily available. There are also two big hotels, Park Plaza Belvedere and Arena Holiday. Both built during the socialist times, but have recently beennicely refurbished and modernized. Each has their own beach, and a nice view of Kamenjak. If you love camping, Medulin has two big campsites, Arena and Kažela. Arena is the smaller one and located on a peninsula right next to the town, inside another protected nature area, park-forest Kašteja. Kažela is located on the aforementioned Marlera peninsula and has a naturist part too. Both campsites offer mobile homes for rent.

Where to eat in Medulin

For a long time, there wasn’t much to recommend for dining in Medulin – and you still have to watch out for the tourist traps! This changed with the opening of restaurant Malin, surely the best place in town. It offers elaborate cuisine, preparing local ingredients with a modern touch, and has a nice view of the marina.

Other decent places are Salt & Pepper, Casa Nostra, pizzeria Kantun, and Financa in Arena campsite, easily on the best location in the town. Also worth checking out is Mižerija, located on the waterfront, which is a bar where the locals go in winter, but offers the simplest local food in tourist months.

If visiting Kamenjak, a good option is Ancora in Premantura. One of the most creative restaurants in Istria is also not far. You can get to Banjole in 10 minutes, and that’s where fish restaurant Batelina is. It’s run by Croatian star chef David Skoko, he of the Anthony Bourdain fame.

Top 3 day trips from Medulin

Brijuni

Istria’s only national park is among its main attractions. A seaside resort for the Austrian elite over a century ago, later the summer residence of Yugoslavia’s president-for-life, Tito, the islands are now open to all visitors. They are most famous for their parks, boasting rich flora and fauna, with about 600 autochthonous species, and some imported ones, such as deer, ostriches, or llamas, who wander around freely. There are also archaeological sites and Tito’s museum, with memorabilia from his famous guests, from Elizabeth Taylor to Jawaharlal Nehru. To visit it from Medulin, you will have to get to the town of Fažana, which will take some 30 minutes by car, and take a boat to Brijuni. Fažana is also reachable by public transport (see the cited Pula Promet for timetables).

Pula

Makes sense to visit Istria’s biggest city if staying in Medulin, given that it’s so close. Car ride will take some 15 minutes, and a bus ride is about half an hour. Once in Pula, do not miss its main attraction, the Arena, but make sure to check out other Roman ruins, scattered around the city. For a great view of the area, climb to Pula’s Kaštel, for an even better view, climb the abandoned Austro-Hungarian fortress on Musil peninsula outside the city. Also, check out the programmes in the Arena – Pula’s renowned film festival is held there, along with occasional big-name concerts and gladiator fights (staged, mind you!).

Labin

East Istria’s biggest town is 45-minute car ride away from Medulin, and is worth visiting not only for its art, architecture, walking trails, views, and food, but also for the ride. If you are not scared of rough roads and trails, you might wanna choose the road Ližnjan – Šišan – Valtura – Kavran – Krnica, as you’ll be in for some surprising views on Kvarner Bay, and places like Rakalj make for nice stops if you want to swim alone. A very special treat in that area is Blaz bay, with abandoned mills and creeks bursting from the hills and running straight into the sea, worth a visit on its own.

5 things you didn’t know about Medulin

Surfing

We did mention windsurfing, but there is more – a beach close to Medulin is one of the few places in Croatia where surfing is possible. True, California-style surfing! The most popular spot is located in Kažela campsite, facing south, where, in days of strong jugo, coastal Croatia’s southeastern wind, shallow waters provide for waves big enough to ride the board.

Old town’s ladonja

Ladonja is a tree species, found throughout the Mediterranean area, and very common in Istria, where it was once planted on the town or village squares, with its shade serving as a gathering point. The one found in the centre of Medulin’s old town (a very different place than the touristic coastline!) is considered one of the most beautiful trees not only in Croatia but also in Europe. In 2020, it was named the winner of the Croatian Tree of the Year competition, and ran for the title of European Tree of the Year title, finishing in 10th place.

The Windmill

Easily the most recognizable symbol of Medulin is the old malin (local word for “mill”), a windmill located near the entrance to the Arena campsite. It was built in 1870s when an old tower was turned into a windmill, unique in Istria. In its prime, it served farmers from the area, outperforming even local steam mills. A long time closed, it was preserved; recently it underwent a renovation, and is now open to visitors.

Dinosaurs

Seems like Kamenjak could pride itself on rich fauna hundreds of millions of years ago already, as dinosaurs left their footprints on the cape, still visible today. One dinosaur trail is found on the cape itself, on the smaller cape Grakalovac, and can be easily visited if coming to Kamenjak. Yet one of the richest dinosaur trails in Europe is found on islet Fenoliga, next to Kamenjak’s coast, with over 150 footprints of various species of dinosaurs, providing valuable info on the size and behaviour of the dinos. Although located close to Kamenjak, Fenoliga is accessible by boat only – swimming there might be dangerous.

Paul Kupelwieser

Medulin could have been a very different place had one entrepreneur managed to realize his vision. Paul Kupelwieser was a Viennese industrialist (1843 – 1919) known in Croatia as the man who bought the unkempt Brijuni islands in 1894 and turned them into a resort place, pioneering Istrian tourism. In the process, he brought Robert Koch in to successfully eradicate malaria, then rampant on the islands, and also established the world’s first diesel boat line from Brijuni to Pula.

With Pula being Austria-Hungary’s main military harbour at the time, Kupelwieser wanted to build a merchant and passenger harbour too, and choose Medulin bay for its location. He bought the land around it, including Kašteja peninsula, where nowadays the Arena campsite is located and even planned a railway link to Medulin. The aforementioned military, however, wasn’t sympathetic to his ideas, so Kupelwieser proposed building an – oil refinery in Medulin. With that idea also (perhaps luckily!) refused, Kupelweiser finally decided to use his estate for – tourism, preceding Medulin’s tourist boom by more than half of a century. His legacy is the aforementioned park-forest Kašteja.

More information

Medulin Riviera tourist board website

To follow the latest news from Medulin, check out the dedicated TCN page.

The post Medulin in a Page: Dinosaurs, Relaxation, Amazing Views, Surfing appeared first on Total Croatia.

• Welcome!
• How to get to Grožnjan and get around
• 4 things not to miss
• Where to stay?
• Where to eat?
• Top 4 day trips from Grožnjan
• 3 things you didn’t know about Grožnjan

Welcome!

The nearby Motovun might be the quintessential Istrian hilltop town, but Grožnjan is also well worth visiting. As is the case with many Istrian towns, it was settled during the Roman times, built under Venetian rule in Middle Ages, and well preserved up to today. The place was almost deserted after World War II, but in 1965 a group of artists decided to turn the town into an art colony, which it remains up to present. It’s a great accommodation spot for those who don’t need the sea, and it makes for a good base for exploring the hilly part of Istria. 

How to get to Grožnjan and get around

Plane

Pula airport is the closest one – from there you will have to rent a car or get a private transfer, as there is no public transport to Grožnjan. The drive takes about an hour. The airports of Rijeka and Trieste are one and a half-hour drive away – keep in mind that if coming from Italy, you will need to cross the border between Slovenia and Italy, which can be clogged during tourist season. 

Road

If driving from Rijeka or Zagreb, best to exit Istrian “Y” motorway at Lupoglav, take road 44 to the roundabout near Bijele Zemlje, and then turn right onto road 21, from where you will turn to Grožnjan. If coming from Pula, Slovenia or Italy, exit the motorway at Buje, then take the road 300 passing through Buje and leading to Grožnjan. Another option if coming from Pula is road 21 – just be prepared for some steep curves just before Grožnjan.

Looking for a fast, reliable and trouble-free transfer to or from Grožnjan? Contact TC transfer partner Adriatic Transfers for your one-stop solution.

Grožnjan is a very small place so you can get around on foot. Having a car at your disposal is highly recommendable, as you will be able to explore much more of the area. 

4 things not to miss in Grožnjan

Art

If you’re choosing to spend any time in Grožnjan, visiting its galleries is a must. The main one is called Fonticus, but it’s only one among many, as there are dozens of studios, ateliers and galleries, with exhibitions, festivals and workshops opening almost on a daily basis. Check out the list of galleries here.

Music lovers should keep in mind that Grožnjan is also the centre of the Croatian Music Youth organisation, which also organises a number of programmes in the town. The town also hosts an international jazz festival, called Jazz is Back BP, held in July – see their Facebook page for more info.

Parenzana

Grožnjan used to be a stop on a narrow-gauge railway running from Poreč (Parenzo in Italian, hence its name) to Trieste in Italy. It was built in 1902 and dismantled in 1935, but its many viaducts and tunnels were preserved, and today serve as a unique biking or hiking route. Check it out on the website.

Food and wine

The area around Grožnjan is famous for wine, as it’s the place where some of Istria’s best winemakers are based. In Momjan village, only 15 minutes away from Grožnjan by car, you will find Kozlović, Istria’s most renowned winemaker, whose state-of-the-art winery was even named one of 100 most beautiful wineries in the world. Momjan is also home to Kabola, an organic winery known for making wine in amphorae. For more of this wine, check out Clai, the pioneer of organic winemaking in Istria.

Inland Istria’s food is quite different from the coastal’s, which is seafood-oriented. If your things are rich soups, homemade pasta, and cured meat, you will love the local cuisine. The area is also famous for truffles. See the “Where to eat” entry for more info.

Another good idea is to visit Istria’s most famous craft brewery, San Servolo, located next to the nearby town of Buje. 

The Momjan Castle

Apart from food and wine, this medieval fortress is another good reason to visit Momjan. A castle was first mentioned in the region in 1035. The current ruins can be traced back to the 13th century, and the well-known Rota family ruled over it for centuries. The castle was completely abandoned in 1835, so nowadays it’s in ruins, but it still makes for a romantic visit. Towering over Dragonja river, close to Kozlović winery, it also offers a great view.

Where to stay in Grožnjan

Grožnjan and its surroundings offer plenty of excellent opportunities for private accommodation. B&Bs, villas, and apartments abound in the area, and many are located in traditional stone houses in idyllic places, be it in Grožnjan itself or in the surrounding countryside. Svalina, Artegnana 1798, Smile, Ars Natura and San Vito are just some of the places worth mentioning in the old town, whereas Villa Torrecorta, Bolara 60, Martincici, Ponte Porton and San Canzian are the ones located just outside of Grožnjan.

Where to eat in Grožnjan

The places in Grožnjan are decent, but if you want to try truly great food, check out family farms (called “agroturizam” in Croatian) and konobas (taverns) in the surroundings of Grožnjan. Recommendable places are Mekiši in the village of the same name, Monticello in Završje, Dešković in Kostanjica, and Sinković in Momjan. The last two ones are wineries too. Great konobas in the area are Stari podrum in Most, Rino in Momjan, and Rondo in Buje. The last one is run by a great winemaker, Franković.   

Top 4 day trips from Grožnjan

Motovun

Grožnjan’s more famous hilltop town cousin is located half an hour away by car. Like Grožnjan, it was built in medieval times under Venetian rule, and it’s the best-preserved old town in Istria. It’s worth visiting for its sights alone, but it also hosts one of Croatia’s most famous film festivals. And it’s the Croatian capital of truffles. One great idea is to join local truffle hunters on their hunts with dogs.

Pula

Staying in the countryside, you might wish for a bit of a city vibe, so visiting Pula is a good idea. A drive there takes about an hour by car. The city’s main attraction are the Roman remains found throughout it. And the Arena, one of the best-preserved colosseums in the world, is the star in that bunch! For a nice view of the city, climb its Kaštel fortress, and if in for a swim, check out Umbrella, Hawaii or Lungomare beaches.

Poreč

If staying in Istria, it would be a shame not to go for a swim, and Poreč, the most popular Istrian place alongside Rovinj, is known precisely for its beaches. The town itself is over 2000 years old and, founded as a Roman castrum, a military camp, it still preserves the camp’s main streets and square. Its special attraction is also Euphrasian basilica, a piece of early Byzantine art fine enough to be protected as a UNESCO World Heritage site. From Grožnjan it’ll take a 40-minute car ride to reach Poreč. 

Osmize

If willing to drive a bit longer and cross the Croatian-Slovenian border (which can take a while during tourist season), you might wanna check out these establishments found around Trieste in Italy and Slovenia. They date from the 18th century, when the government of Maria Theresa, the only female ruler of the Habsburg dynasty, allowed the local farmers to sell their produce without the tax for eight days in a year. If you want to try homemade food and wine and imbibe local atmosphere, don’t miss them. There are over 50 of them in the area and each one is open at a different time of year, so you will surely find one. They are easily recognisable by an upturned branch hung in front of them. For the list of currently open ones, see their website.

3 things you didn’t know about Grožnjan

River port

Centuries ago, Grožnjan even had its port on the nearby Mirna, Istria’s biggest river. It was located next to the present-day intersection of roads 21 and 44 and called Ponte Porton. The port existed from Roman times, and it was in operation up to the times of Venetian rule. After that, the river’s unmaintained bed became shallow, making it unnavigable. A legend claims Jason and Argonauts sailed Mirna when returning home from Colchis. 

Istrian exodus

Grožnjan used to be a predominantly Italian town until after World War 2, when most of its population, like most of Istria’s Italians, left communist Yugoslavia and settled in Italy. This led to the town almost dying out, but the great idea of turning it into an art colony saved it. Today, most of Grožnjan’s population is Italian-speaking, making it one of the most Italian places in Istria. 

Fritule

Fritule are a popular dessert in Istria, a fried pastry, resembling donuts, but walnut-sized. Centuries ago, Grožnjan’s judges maintained a peculiar custom involving fritule. On the first day of Lent, they would have them made and distribute to inhabitants of Grožnjan, who, under threat of penalty, had to eat them. Do not worry, nowadays nobody will force you to eat them – although we doubt you would refuse. 

More information

Grožnjan tourist board’s website:

To follow the latest news from Istria, check out the dedicated TCN page.

The post Grožnjan in a Page: Parenzana, Arts, Momjan Castle appeared first on Total Croatia.

]]> https://total-croatia-news.com/destinations/groznjan-2/feed/ 0 https://total-croatia-news.com/destinations/novigrad-7/ https://total-croatia-news.com/destinations/novigrad-7/#respond Wed, 28 Apr 2021 14:50:48 +0000 https://total-croatia-news.com/?p=1632 From a small fishing village to an important tourist center, Novigrad became one of the most desirable vacation spots in Istria. Let it fascinate you with its lovely sights and attractions. Welcome to Novigrad, a charming fishing town! How to get to Novigrad and get around 5 things not to miss Where to stay? Where ... Read more

The post Novigrad in a Page: History, Fishing, Seafood, Day Trips appeared first on Total Croatia.

]]> From a small fishing village to an important tourist center, Novigrad became one of the most desirable vacation spots in Istria. Let it fascinate you with its lovely sights and attractions.

• Welcome to Novigrad, a charming fishing town!
• How to get to Novigrad and get around
• 5 things not to miss
• Where to stay?
• Where to eat?
• Trip ideas from Novigrad
• Things you didn’t know about Novigrad

Welcome to Novigrad, a charming fishing town!

A small fishing town, Novigrad exudes its cultural and historical heritage. It was first mentioned in the 7th century, and its area was inhabited as far back as ancient times. However, today it is a famous tourist center of Istria.

Despite its tourism success, Novigrad has retained its charm of a fishing village. Also called Cittanova in Italian, it lies on the northwest coast of Istria and is only 25 kilometers from Slovenia.

Its streets will enchant you, as well as indigenous gastronomic delicacies such as Novigrad scallops.

The beautiful coast and clear sea have been attracting tourists to this area for years. That is why Novigrad is an excellent place for holidays with many tourist and sports facilities. Discover all of its secrets!

How to get to Novigrad and get around

Arriving in Novigrad by car or bus

Novigrad has excellent road connections, so you can quickly arrive by car or bus. If you’re coming from Italy, Slovenia or Pula, you can take Istrian Y highway and exit in Nova Vas or Višnjan. When coming from Zagreb and Rijeka, the fastest way is a local road through Buzet.

You can take a bus to Novigrad from the Croatian cities of Zagreb and Rijeka, and even from Plitvice Lakes. If you are somewhere else in Croatia and want to get to Novigrad by bus, you can do so by coming to Rijeka first. It’s a connecting stop to the whole of Istria.

Looking for a fast, reliable and trouble-free transfer to or from Novigrad? Contact TC transfer partner Adriatic Transfers for your one-stop solution.

Local bus lines connect Novigrad to Umag, Poreč, Rovinj, and Pula. There used to be an international line from Trieste to Novigrad. Unfortunately, because of the current epidemiological situation, there is still no information on future rides.

Nearest airports

The closest airport to Novigrad is Pula Airport, offering shuffle bus services to nearby cities, including Novigrad. Also, Trieste Airport in Italy could be your other closest option.

To find out all current rules for traveling to and from Croatia, check our daily updated COVID-19 in Croatia guide.

Although Istria is mostly a car destination, several more airports surround it. So you can also plan your arrival via airports in Rijeka, Zagreb, Ljubljana, Treviso, and Venice.

Boat lines to and from Novigrad

You can come by boat from the neighboring Istrian towns of Umag, Rovinj, and Poreč. Day trips to and from Novigrad from the entire western coast of Istria are very popular. Be sure to experience Novigrad through the view from the open sea.

5 things not to miss

Freestanding bell tower

Each city has its symbol. In Novigrad, it is the bell tower of St. Pelagius from 1883. The church of the same name is a three-nave basilica, famous for the only early Romanesque crypt in Istria.

Does the bell tower remind you of another one? Yes, it was modeled on the bell tower of St. Mark in Venice.

Novigrad umbrellas

If you walk through the old town, you will be pleasantly surprised by the dance of colorful umbrellas over the streets. Apart from the ancient walls and the recognizable bell tower, this new attraction also became a peculiar symbol of the town.

During sunny summer days, the umbrellas with their warm colors provide a unique atmosphere of this picturesque city. Take a photo for social networks and delight your followers!

Fish specialties – Novigrad scallops

Since Novigrad was once a fishing village, this heritage is still stable today. Admittedly, to a somewhat lesser extent than in the past. But fish specialties are still an essential part of Novigrad’s gastronomic offer.

Have some fish or seafood on your menu as well.

The most appreciated shellfish of northwestern Istria is the Novigrad scallop or Pecten jacobaeus (Novigradska kapešanta, Jakobova kapica). Apart from them, mussels and oysters are also famous. Also, February and March host the so-called Shell Days, dedicated to this delicious seafood.

Lapidarium Museum

One of the most important collections of stone monuments hides inside this museum. Besides its top-notch contemporary design, the Lapidarium Museum building blends perfectly with the old town.

Above all, a young and ambitious team leads this relatively new concept. It is a must-visit place to get to know the town’s cultural heritage!

Safe harbor Mandrač

This hideout safe from wind and waves was once a central fishing port important for the fish trade. This tradition is still preserved by the local population, which regularly gathers in Mandrač Bay.

Today, Mandrač is one of the most recognizable symbols of Novigrad. Experience its magic during the warm summer nights.

Where to stay in Novigrad

The most important economic branch of this town is undoubtedly tourism. That is why there is a whole wealth of hotel and accommodation facilities. Wellness centers and family facilities are only part of the destination’s hotel offer. Besides, Novigrad has two camping centers, as is Istria is a famous camping destination.

Aminess Maestral Hotel (also a wellness paradise), Aminess Laguna Hotel, and Hotel Nautica lie along the attractive Novigrad coastline.

Colors of Istria brings a detailed accommodation guide to Novigrad.

Needless to say, the beautiful beaches of Novigrad will provide you with everything you need for a perfect vacation. On the Aminess Maestral Hotel beach, close to the city center, find the Punto Mare sun deck, a place for top summer fun.

Where to eat in Novigrad

Istria is a famous gourmet destination and was declared the best region of olive oil in the world. Therefore, when visiting any Istrian place, you must taste this exceptional cuisine. Also, tasting quality Istrian wine is indispensable.

Novigrad does not lag with its gastronomic offer either. Restaurants Čok, Marina, and Damir & Ornella stand out as the best in Novigrad.

Since Novigrad is a fishing town, enjoy the taste of the sea depths with their best fish delicacies.

Especially mussels, a traditional local specialty. Every year, the Mussel Festival takes place in Novigrad. Don’t miss it this year!

Trip ideas from Novigrad

Daily boat trips to nearby cities

Whether you decide to visit Poreč, Rovinj, or Umag, you won’t regret your choice. Each western Istrian city hides its own unique story. If you stay longer in Novigrad, be sure to book one day to explore them.

Boat lines connect the towns, and it’s also close to hop from one to another by car or bus.
If you want to stay in nature, visit a beautiful submerged estuary Lim Fjord.

Road trips to inland Istria

As beautiful as the Istrian coast is, so is its interior. If not more.

Feel the spirit of the history of this charming peninsula through the numerous small towns on the hilltops. The possibilities are endless.

Places like Višnjan, Grožnjan, and Motovun will surely enchant you with their hidden beauty. It is up to you to head to Istria’s interior.

Mirna River delta and Tarska vala (Tar Cove)

When entering Novigrad by car or bus, you will take a narrow road over the mouth of the river Mirna through the bay of Tarska vala (Tar Cove). It’s hard to describe that feeling when the water surrounds you from all sides. You have to experience it for yourself. The shallow bay around you will seem unreal.

You can park your car in the bay and enjoy a drink overlooking this habitat rich in fish and known for fishing. This whole area is rich in flora and fauna, especially birds. It has thus been declared an ornithological reserve.

And apart from being a habitat for many bird species, the Mirna River delta is one of the few remaining wetlands in the Mediterranean.

Wine roads

Northwestern Istria is a perfect place for all wine lovers.

The Umag-Novigrad region is the cradle of the Istrian wine tradition. Due to the sunny hills and terra rossa (soil), wine varieties such as Muškat Momjanski were born here (in Momjan near Buje).

Today, some of the most prominent Croatian winemakers operate in this area, whose wineries are open for visitors. Count them as your next stop when in Istria! Take the wine roads and taste the best Istrian wines along the way.

Besides, you can book a trip “Novigrad Cittanova Wine Trail,” which provides an unforgettable journey through the wine roads of Novigrad.

Aquapark Istralandia

Are you up for some fun? Luckily, Aquapark Istralandia is just a few kilometers away from Novigrad. Perfect place if you are on vacation with children. However, it is no less fun for the rest of the family either.
And it has recently been named the fourth-best water park in the world! We hope we’ve given you enough reason to pack up and spend a day at this awesome colorful water fun.

Bike trails

Biking is undoubtedly one of the fantastic ways to enjoy the incredible nature of Istria.
Whether riding along the coast or on the hills, northwestern Istria hides incredible cycling adventures. The list of Istrian bike trails is long. Find them all in this e-book.

Pits and caves

The interior of Istria also boasts a wealth of speleological objects open to visitors.

One such treasure, the Mramornica cave (also called the “Marble cave”), descends to a depth of 20 meters near the town of Brtonigla. Speleologists rank the Mramornica cave among the largest and most beautiful underground sites in Istria.

The Baredine Cave (Grotta Baredine) near Poreč is unique because you can see a human fish at the bottom. Take a peek into the underground world of Istria.

More information

For more information about Novigrad, visit the Novigrad Tourist Board website.

To follow the latest news from Novigrad, check out the dedicated Total Croatia News page.

The post Novigrad in a Page: History, Fishing, Seafood, Day Trips appeared first on Total Croatia.

]]> https://total-croatia-news.com/destinations/novigrad-7/feed/ 0 https://total-croatia-news.com/destinations/motovun-in-a-page/ https://total-croatia-news.com/destinations/motovun-in-a-page/#respond Tue, 27 Apr 2021 11:05:20 +0000 https://total-croatia-news.com/?p=1600 For a taste of Istrian interior, visit Motovun, the most popular and charming hilltop town in the region full of them.   Welcome! How to get to Motovun and get around 5 things not to miss Where to stay? Where to eat? Top 3 day trips from Motovun 5 things you didn’t know about Motovun ... Read more

The post Motovun in a Page: Hilltop Location, Truffles, Film Festival, Mirna River appeared first on Total Croatia.

]]> For a taste of Istrian interior, visit Motovun, the most popular and charming hilltop town in the region full of them.  

• Welcome!
• How to get to Motovun and get around
• 5 things not to miss
• Where to stay?
• Where to eat?
• Top 3 day trips from Motovun
• 5 things you didn’t know about Motovun

Welcome!

Motovun sits on top of a hill towering over the valley of Mirna, the biggest Istrian river. The location was settled since Celtic times, but the town we know today was mostly built under Venetian rule in the Middle Age. Its centuries-old walls and buildings are the best preserved in Istria, giving the place a unique charm. Yet Motovun is more than its quaint architecture and the breathtaking view. It is the Croatian capital of truffles and hosts a famous film festival. 

How to get to Motovun and get around

Plane

The closest airport is the one in Pula. From there, the best option is to get a rent-a-car or a private transfer, as public transport connections to Motovun are almost non-existent. Another close airport is the one in Rijeka, about one and a half hours away by road. Trieste’s airport is also one and a half hours away, but watch out for possible traffic jams at the Croatian-Slovenian border. 

Road

Motovun is located in central-to-north Istria, next to road 44 which connects two parts of the Istrian “Y” motorway via the town of Buzet. If coming from Zagreb and Rijeka, best to exit the motorway at Lupoglav and continue onto road 44. If driving from Slovenia or Italy, leave the motorway at Nova Vas and continue onto road 44. Same applies if coming from Pula. An alternative way from Pula is to take road 21 to Štuti, then turn left onto the road to Motovun via Karojba. This is also an option if traveling from Rovinj – take road 303 to the intersection near Brajkovići, then turn onto road 21. These are the slower routes, but will let you experience Istrian interior. 

Looking for a fast, reliable and trouble-free transfer to or from Motovun? Contact TC transfer partner Adriatic Transfers for your one-stop solution.

Motovun itself is easy to get around by foot. Just note that you will have to exercise a bit if not staying in the old town itself. Exploring the town’s surroundings will take a car or at least a bike. 

5 things not to miss in Motovun

Truffles

Motovun is surrounded by the eponymous forest, famous for the abundance of truffles growing there. And it’s not only the spot for common black ones but also one of the few places in the world where you can find the more delicate white ones. Truffle-based dishes are readily available in most local restaurants at very affordable prices. 

For those who wish to experience more, try truffle hunts with dogs. Check out Miro Tartufi for that. Another great place for truffle hunts is Karlić tartufi in Paladini village. It is some 20 minutes away from Motovun by car, but you’ll be in for some nice views of Istrian hills and Butoniga lake. Both establishments also provide a truffle brunch and offer various truffle-based products. 

If you find yourself in Motovun in October, check out the Teta Festival – festival of truffles and teran, local red wine. 

Wine

Istria happens to be Croatia’s most developed wine-producing region, and some of its best winemakers reside in Motovun area. The ones to check out are Benvenuti, Tomaz, and Fakin. All are located in Motovun itself or in the nearby villages. They mostly make wines from Istrian varieties, Malvazija and Teran.

For something funkier, namely heavily aged red and amber wines, try winery Roxanich in the aforementioned hotel. Their forte are heavily aged red and amber wines. If organic is your thing, check out Ipša in the nearby village of Ipši. If there, make sure you taste some of their olive oil made, which ranks among the best in the world!

Parenzana

In 1902, the Austrians built a narrow-gauge railway between Poreč (called Parenzo in Italian) and Trieste, which passed right below Motovun. Its main purpose was exporting wine, which Istria at the time produced even more than today.

Winding through numerous tunnels and over numerous viaducts, it was agonizingly slow – the journey of 123 kilometers lasted for about 7 hours. The railway was dismantled under Italian rule in 1935, but its viaducts and tunnels were preserved. Today, most of the railway route serves as a biking or hiking trail. For more details, see the official webpage.

Motovun Film Festival

Founded in 1999 by director Rajko Grlić and producer Boris T. Matić, the festival helped turn then-sleepy Motovun into a popular destination. The festival itself became one of the most renowned Croatian movie festivals, attracting big names such as Paul Thomas Anderson, Vanessa Redgrave, Ken Russell, Stephen Daldry, Terry Jones, among others. It is usually held in late July or early August, with the entire town being turned into an open-air cinema. The movie shows are accompanied by rich additional programme, making Motovun one of the coolest places to be in Croatia at the moment. Make sure to reserve accommodation in time if you want to attend, as finding a place to stay can be mission impossible otherwise. For any additional info, check the festival’s website. 

Istarske toplice (Istrian spa)

Below the rocks of Mirna river’s canyon, you will find the only Istrian spa. It is renowned for its sulfur-rich mineral water, used for the treatment of rheumatic and skin diseases. This is a place to be if you are a healthy tourist but is also open to those who simply want to relax in pools and saunas. The place is located some 15 minutes away by car from Motovun, and is also very close to the aforementioned konoba Dolina.  

Where to stay in Motovun

There are numerous private apartments and rooms in the old town. It’s best to book them well in advance, as in peak season it might be difficult to get a room. The only hotel in the old town is Kaštel. Its plus is that it comprises wellness and spa, and a good restaurant. At the base of Motovun you will find Roxanich hotel, located in a fancily refurbished old winery – and, as mentioned, comprising a winery too. A good idea is also to look for a villa with a pool in Motovun’s surroundings – it is a common choice among visitors to Istria. Some agrotourism offer accommodation too. 

Where to eat in Motovun

As mentioned, Motovun is famous for truffles, but Istrian cuisine is much more than them. Motovun area is not the place to try seafood, but the traditional food of central Istria, simple yet tasty. Think rich soups, local pastas and juciy meat cuts.

The most famous restaurant in the old town is konoba Mondo, once visited by Anthony Bourdain. Another recommendable eatery is konoba Fakin, whose owner is the aforementioned winemaker, where you can try a selection of his wines. If willing to drive some 10 minutes to Gradinje village, you will find konoba Dolina, one of the best traditional food restaurants in Istria. Agritourisms, abundant in the area, are also well worth a short drive from Motovun. Check out Tikel, Štifanići, Toni or Matijašić for homemade food served in idylic surroundings. 

Top 3 day trips from Motovun

The Seven Waterfalls of Mirna

Only 20 minutes away from Motovun, next to Buzet town, you will find easily the most magical hiking trail in Istria. It runs next to rivers Mirna and its tributary Draga. These two intertwine in the forests and hill, forming the 7 waterfalls, along with countless cascades, lakes, ponds and rapids. Additional attractions on the route are old mine shafts, old mills, and a refurbished old village named Kotli. There you can treat yourself to a meal in restaurant Kotlić.

The trail’s starting and ending point are located near Buzet’s brewery (Buzetska pivovara). Its length is some 15 kilometers and can take over 5 hours to cross. Make sure to bring suitable footwear and keep in mind that the trail takes some effort and skill. 

Trieste

Croatia’s closest Italian city has a rich history. Up to the end of World War I, it was Austria’s main harbour and one of the most vibrant cities in the Austro-Hungarian Empire. After its dissolution, it was, like Istria, annexed by Italy. When World War 2 ended, Yugoslavia tried to annex it as it did Istria. This led to a dispute with Italy, which resulted in the city being proclaimed a free state. It existed until 1954 when it was ceded to Italy. For Yugoslavia, it became the place where its citizens went to buy consumer goods not available in their socialist homeland. This intertwining of Italian, Slavic, and Austrian cultures created a unique city, resembling Vienna, but located by the sea.

A drive from Motovun takes less than one hour and a half unless there is a jam at the Croatian-Slovenian border. The city is definitely worth a visit for sightseeing, shopping or simply going for aperitivo, as Italians call bar-hopping after work. 

Poreč

One of the gems of Istria’s west coast, Poreč is, alongside Rovinj, the most visited place in Istria. The town is over 2000 years old, and was built in Roman times as a castrum, a military camp. Its forum and main streets, Cardo and Decumanus, are still visible. The most famous local landmark is Euphrasian basilica, a fine example of early Byzantine architecture, a protected UNESCO’s World Heritage site. If staying in Motovun, you might wish for a swim in the sea – Poreč is famous for its beaches too. A drive from Motovun lasts for about 40 minutes. Find out more about Poreč in our Poreč in a Page article.

5 things you didn’t know about Motovun

Motovun staircase

The town boasts easily the longest staircase in Croatia, leading from the town’s base up to the top. A popular local challenge is to count them all while climbing – see if you can! (Just to help a bit, there are over one thousand of them.) 

Josef Ressel

For a while, Motouvun was the residence of this Austrian forester and inventor, known for the invention of ship propeller. A story claims he got the idea for it by watching propeller-shaped maple seeds flying in the Motovun forest. Be it true or not, Ressel is the reason Motovun Film Festival adopted propeller as its main symbol and the name of its main award. 

Mario Andretti

One of the most famous American racing drivers was born in Motovun. When he was a kid, he and his brother would build wooden carts and race down their hometown’s steep streets. Like many Italians, the Andretti family left Istria for Italy after World War II, finally emigrating to USA in 1955. There, Mario became the only driver in history to win Formula One World Championship, Indianapolis 500, and Daytona 500. 

Istrian Berlin

Zamask, a village close to Motovun once used to be a local version of Cold War Berlin. Since the Middle Age, Istria was divided between Venice and Austria, and Zamask was located at the often disputed border. After a war in 1508, the border cut the village in half, dividing even the local church. This led to bickering between the citizens of Venice-ruled Motovun, who owned land across the border, and Austrian governor based in Pazin town. Looting from inhabitants on the other side also wasn’t uncommon. The feud lasted into the 19th century, even after the Austrian takeover of the entire peninsula. 

Veli Jože

Local legends say that a long time ago giants dwelled in Istria, and built a number of old Istrian towns, including Motovun. This inspired famous Croatian writer Vladimir Nazor for one of his most popular novels, whose title character is kind-hearted giant Veli Jože. He works as a serf for the citizens of Motovun, who exploit and mistreat him, leading him to pursue freedom. Do not worry, the people of Motovun are nothing like the villains described in the novel! 

More information

Motovun tourist board’s webpage: https://www.tz-motovun.hr/en

To follow the latest news from Motovun, check out the dedicated TCN page.

The post Motovun in a Page: Hilltop Location, Truffles, Film Festival, Mirna River appeared first on Total Croatia.

]]> https://total-croatia-news.com/destinations/motovun-in-a-page/feed/ 0 https://total-croatia-news.com/destinations/umag-5/ https://total-croatia-news.com/destinations/umag-5/#respond Mon, 26 Apr 2021 13:34:03 +0000 https://total-croatia-news.com/?p=1597 Best known as the host of the ATP tournament, this small town on the Northwestern coast of Istria deserves the title of the Croatian capital of tennis. Get better acquainted with all of the other charms of Umag – there are plenty. The Westernmost city in Croatia: Welcome to Umag! How to get to Umag ... Read more

The post Umag in a Page: Sports, Tennis, History, Gastro, Savudrija appeared first on Total Croatia.

]]> Best known as the host of the ATP tournament, this small town on the Northwestern coast of Istria deserves the title of the Croatian capital of tennis. Get better acquainted with all of the other charms of Umag – there are plenty.

• The Westernmost city in Croatia: Welcome to Umag!
• How to get to Umag and get around
• 5 things not to miss
• Where to stay?
• Where to eat?
• Top 5 day trips from Umag
• Things you didn’t know about Umag

The westernmost city in Croatia: welcome to Umag!

Being one of the Istrian pearls, Umag stretches along 45 kilometers of its western coast. It is only 10 kilometers away from the Slovenian border and is thus easily accessible by car. Its charm, diversity, and richness of offerings best describe it as the perfect vacation city.

Whether you just want to lie on the beautiful beaches or still want to learn something about the history, Umag offers it all.

This popular tourist destination is a holiday paradise because it also offers high-quality accommodation facilities. From hotels to family apartments and car camps, you can find something that suits you.

Rich historical heritage adorns this city. Get better acquainted with it by walking through the old town, as well as visiting the many churches. Be sure to visit the city museum and galleries. Keep walking to the recognizable 404-meter-long breakwater.

Irresistible hilly places and forts with amazing views surround the town. Don’t miss out on exploring their fascinating past by any means, and don’t miss out on tasting authentic Istrian delicacies.

Like other destinations on the Adriatic, Umag attracts guests during the summer months. According to tourist overnight stays, it is among the leading destinations in Croatia. However, the city offers many year-round facilities and is even one of the best cities to live in Croatia!

Umag, or Umago, is a bilingual area since two official languages are spoken in Istria – Croatian and Italian. Find out more about languages spoken in Istria.

Umag is also deservedly called the city of sports. In addition to hosting the ATP Croatia Open tournament, it boasts many sports associations and sports. With less than 14,000 inhabitants, there are as many as 55 sports associations – impressive.

How to get to Umag and get around

Umag is the Northernmost coastal town in Croatia, near the border with Slovenia. When coming to the area, you can take a road, bus, boat or plane to Istria.

Coming to Umag by car or bus

If you’re coming to Umag by car, you can easily find it on an Istrian Y highway. Thanks to it, all Istrian cities are very well connected by road.

In addition, Umag is connected with other Croatian destinations by various bus lines. Come to Umag from Zagreb, Rijeka or even Plitvice Lakes!

Looking for a fast, reliable and trouble-free transfer to or from Umag? Contact TC transfer partner Adriatic Transfers for your one-stop solution.

Regional bus routes include departures from the nearby cities of Poreč, Rovinj, Novigrad, Pula, Motovun, and Grožnjan. An international bus line from Trieste used to operate to Umag, but due to the coronavirus pandemic, there is still no information on future rides.

Nearby airports

Although Istrian towns are not primarily airline destinations, they are generally close to many airports. This is also true for Umag.

The closest airport to Umag is Pula Airport in Istria, offering shuttle bus services. However, some other close-by airports are in Rijeka, Trieste, Venice, Treviso, Ljubljana, and Zagreb.

Boat connections

Western Istrian towns are very well connected by catamaran lines with Venice. However, this year there are still no Adriatic Lines sailing between Umag and Venice.

We are also still waiting for the Venezia Lines sailing schedule.

5 things not to miss in Umag

The old town and city’s history

Even Roman nobles recognized the splendor of Umag and decided to appropriate it as their summer residence centuries ago. Their rich legacy is visible today in the Venetian houses and towers of the old town.

Take a walk through these streets and feel the spirit of their history and culture. In the main town square, visit the Church of the Assumption of Mary and Saint Peregrine, the city’s patron saint.

The whole city exudes a rich history through numerous churches, towers, and villas. And today, all these are the art platforms of Umag – places which play host to numerous concerts and other artistic events. Don’t miss the art galleries either!

Since Umag is a developed tourist center, the old town does not lack tourist content such as shops and souvenirs. And all this near the beautiful coast that provides peace and a beautiful view of the Adriatic.

Food and wine offer

Istria is a top gastro and wine destination. Therefore, when visiting every Istrian town, you simply have to enjoy Istrian wine and cuisine. Umag is no exception.

Do not miss out on tasting some of the top Istrian olive oil, as Istria is the best olive oil region in the world! Enjoy numerous meat and seafood specialties and toast it all with a glass of Istrian wine.

Find something to your liking in a handful of small restaurants, pizzerias, bars, and confectioneries. After that, visit specialized shops and stalls and take some Istrian specialties home.

The Saint Peregrine area

Umag is also reserved for year-round excursions. Therefore, at any time of the year, you can spend time in nature along the picnic area of Saint Pelegrine. Do you need anything more than fresh air and the sound of the waves?

Barbecue, of course! People from Umag love it, and the area is now fully equipped to enjoy a barbecue.

Beautiful meadow by the sea, the city’s green heart, Saint Pelegrine is traditionally a recreational area beloved by the locals.

Umag City Museum

At the extreme western part of the Umag peninsula lies the Medieval tower, also called the bishop’s palace. In 1976, it was converted into a museum space, today’s City Museum. Also, it is the oldest historical building still in use.

Built in the early 14th century, the tower served as a fortress to defend the city from potential maritime invaders. Today it defends the city’s artistic and historical heritage worthy of admiration.

Sea Star Festival

If you prefer contemporary cultural events, though, then the Sea Star Festival is for you!

Two days of top world music in the beautiful surroundings of Istria have gathered more than 120,000 visitors so far. The Prodigy, Wu-Tang Clan and Robin Schulz are just some of the internationally-known names seen on the Umag stage. Outstanding production also makes this festival a must-visit. Sea Star was even nominated for the best European medium-sized festival!

Početna 2023

So far, Stella Maris Resort in Umag has turned into an oasis of fun at the end of May three times. Due to the current unfavorable epidemiological situation, the party people will have to wait a little longer. The Sea Star Festival will come back to Umag in 2022, from May 27-28. However, its organizers have announced a season better than ever!

Where to stay in Umag

Since this part of the Croatian coast is among the most developed tourist destinations, it offers many quality accommodation facilities. Such are hotels and camping resorts that have been mainly attracting car tourists for years.

The exceptional hotel locations right by the sea will delight even those with the most demanding requests. Besides, Umag will welcome you with a rich gastronomic offer and plenty of fun and children’s activities.

The famous hotel group Plava Laguna in Umag takes care of providing you a perfect summer experience. Check its seafront hotels and apartments.

Famous for the Sea Star Festival, Stella Maris Resort lies 3 kilometers north of Umag. Beautiful beaches and pine forests make this area perfect for booking a stay.

Find your place on time because tourist accommodation in Umag is always in demand. In summer because of the tourist season, in winter because of sports competitions and preparations.

Where to eat in Umag

From pizzerias to taverns, choose your place along the coast and enjoy the excellent food offer in Umag. In city’s restaurants taste Istrian specialties such as truffles, asparagus, and olive oil.

Colours of Istria brings a wide range of restaurants in Umag.

Top 5 day trips from Umag

1. Savudrija

The westernmost point of Croatia, Savudrija is a place you simply must visit while you are in Umag. Savudrija lighthouse is well-known for its cylindrical shape. Did you know that it’s the oldest lighthouse in use in the entire Adriatic? Its light from a height of 36 meters reaches up to 18 nautical miles. It is as magnificent during the day as it is during the night!

2. Motovun

You have probably already heard of Motovun, and if you find yourself anywhere in Istria, put it on your bucket list.

Apart from the famous Film Festival, this city on top of a hill in inland Istria is full of cultural features. Beautiful forest and nature surround it. If you set out on an adventure in the woods, you will find nothing less than – truffles! Motovun will surely surprise you with much more.

3. Novigrad

If you decide to stay longer in Umag, be sure to visit its neighbor Novigrad. Like the whole of Istria, Novigrad is also an attractive tourist destination. Daily bus and boat lines between these two cities will take you quickly in the summer.

This town used to be a small fishing village, and it has preserved such a charm to this day. Stop by when you are already in Istria.

4. Stancija Seget

The most monumental country architecture in Istria, you will find Seget castle a few hundred meters on the road from Novigrad to Umag.

This impressive baroque-historicist castle dates from the 18th and 19th centuries. The complex was built by the very influential De Franceschi family, who came to Istria from Crete in 1720.

It was the center from which all the then advanced knowledge about agriculture and agricultural production spread.

5. Poreč

This Istrian town is one of the best Croatian tourist destinations, but also culturally rich. Poreč is home to the UNESCO protected Euphrasian Basilica worth your visit while in Croatia.

It’s only 40 kilometers away from Umag. Local bus lines connect the two towns, while boat lines operate during the summer season. You have no excuse not to visit this real gem!

Things you didn’t know about Umag

European sports town

Umag has as many as 55 sports associations and 24 sports. It isn’t easy to count them all. However, tennis and handball stand out.

The City Sports Association takes care of sports in this sports city by organizing numerous sports competitions and events. Umag also traditionally hosts many sports preparations, especially in the winter months.

A rich sports history, especially tennis, got its crown in 2017. Umag was officially declared the European City of Sports!

ATP Croatia Open best sporting event

International tennis tournament ATP Plava Laguna Croatia Open placed Umag and Croatia to the tennis world map.

A unique shell-shaped stadium and a combination of day and night tennis matches make this tournament a magical experience for every tennis fan. And all this by the wonderful Adriatic Sea!

Not only is the ATP Croatia Open responsible for the recognizability of Umag on the world map, but also the whole of Croatia. That is why in 2019, it won the title of the most important international event in Croatia.

ATP Croatia Open won the Golden Goat (Capra d’oro) annual award by the Istria County Tourist Board. Thus, it was the most successful sporting event that significantly enriches the tourist offer of Umag, Istria, and Croatia.

ATP Croatia Open Umag was supposed to celebrate its 30th jubilee edition last year. Unfortunately, the organizers had to cancel it last year due to the coronavirus pandemic. This year, ATP Croatia Open should take place from July 16 -25.

Come and see for yourself the feel-good atmosphere of this tournament that floods Umag every year!

Life quality

Besides tourism achievements, Umag offers one of the best lifestyles in Croatia. Why? Well, the City Administration is continuously working on projects and investments to improve life in the city.

Umag has been nominated for the best city in Croatia in various categories several times, which you can read more about in this article. In 2018, Umag was the best city in Croatia in terms of education, demography, and social policy!

Handball and Lino Červar

Apart from tennis, Umag is also a large handball center with a rich tradition of playing handball. Well-known Croatian handball coach and former Croatian national handball team coach Lino Červar was born in Istria, in Delići near Vrsar. At the beginning of his career, he was the coach of the Umag club Istraturist.

He thus wears the symbolic nickname “Mago di Umago” meaning “Wizard of Umag.” In 2020, he received the Lifetime Achievement Award of the City of Umag.

More information

For more information about Umag, visit the Umag Tourist Board website.

To follow the latest news from Umag, check out the dedicated Total Croatia News page.

The post Umag in a Page: Sports, Tennis, History, Gastro, Savudrija appeared first on Total Croatia.

]]> https://total-croatia-news.com/destinations/umag-5/feed/ 0 https://total-croatia-news.com/destinations/labin-3/ https://total-croatia-news.com/destinations/labin-3/#respond Thu, 08 Apr 2021 08:09:17 +0000 https://total-croatia-news.com/?p=1306 Easily the finest undiscovered gem of Istria, Labin is located in the Eastern part of the peninsula. The town used to be known for coal mines, but these days it’s a cool tourism destination, and a great place to live! Welcome! How to get to Labin and get around 5 things not to miss Where ... Read more

The post Labin in a Page: Art, Walks&Trails, Rabac, Beaches appeared first on Total Croatia.

]]> Easily the finest undiscovered gem of Istria, Labin is located in the Eastern part of the peninsula. The town used to be known for coal mines, but these days it’s a cool tourism destination, and a great place to live!

• Welcome!
• How to get to Labin and get around
• 5 things not to miss
• Where to stay?
• Where to eat?
• Top 3 day trips from Labin
• 3 things you didn’t know about Labin

Welcome!

Labin is the biggest town in otherwise not-so-populated and not-so-popular eastern Istria. In the past, the town was known for its coal mines. Nowadays, all the mines have been closed, and there are no more miners. The community is turning more and more towards tourism – but is far from being overwhelmed by it. Its old town, sitting on top of a hill, is among the most beautiful ones on the peninsula. Although it’s not located by the sea, and exactly because of that, Labin has a stunning view of Kvarner bay. But, as you will learn from this article, Labin is much more than your typical charming Istrian place. Get ready for modernist architecture, quaint walking trails, and lots of art. 

How to get to Labin and get around

Plane

There are several options if you plan to fly close to Labin. Pula Airport is the closest, the drive from it is going to be under an hour even during the high tourist season. Rijeka Airport is somewhat further, as it is on the island of Krk, on the opposite side of Rijeka from Labin. Count on that drive being closer to 2 hours, and potentially more in the highs season. Trieste’s airport is also an option, as it’s under 150 km away. You should keep in mind that you need to cross two borders to get from there to Labin.

Road

Car and bus are basically the only ways to reach Labin. The town is not located on the Istrian motorway system, also known as the Istrian Y. However, there are good roads connecting it to the rest of Istria. If coming from Zagreb or Rijeka, best to leave the “Y” right after passing through tunnel Učka at exit Vranje. Take the road 500 to Vozilići, then road 66 to Labin. There exists a much more scenic way to Labin if coming from this direction. It is a bit longer: take road 66 from Matulji exit on road E751, which runs along the Adriatic coast. If coming from Slovenia/Italy or western Istria, take the Y to Rogovići, then road 64 to Vozilići, then road 66 to Labin. If coming from Pula, the best way is road 66.

Bus connections are somewhat poor, but there are bus lines to and from Zagreb, Rijeka and Pula. Best to contact your nearest bus station, as proper info on bus lines in Croatia is often non-existent, incomplete or unreliable on the Internet. 

Labin is a small place, so most of the attractions are accessible by foot. However, it helps to have a car or at least a bike at your disposal for any trips. 

Looking for a fast, reliable and trouble-free transfer to or from Labin? Contact TC transfer partner Adriatic Transfers for your one-stop solution.

5 things not to miss in Labin

Art & Heritage

For a town of little over 10 thousand people, Labin has a respectable number of art projects and events. To begin with, there is Labin Art Express (LAE), contemporary art association established in 1991. It’s based in multimedia centre Lamparna, located in the old coal mine buildings. Its main aim is to preserve the abandoned mines by constructing a whole underground city beneath the ground. There should be bars, restaurants, galleries, concert halls, and the like, with its own government, literally underground. The project is not finished, but you can check out other ongoing LAE’s projects on their website. Another project of interest is the Labin Art Republic, held throughout July and August. During the Art Republic, the old town gets turned into a stage for concerts and plays, accompanied by exhibitions by local artists. Check out their Facebook page for more info.

Still, the finest art project in Labin is easily the sculpture park Dubrova. It started in 1969, as the fruit of Mediteranski kiparski simpozij (Mediterranean Symposium of Sculpture), and still going. The project involves guest sculptors, mostly Croatian, but also from the entire world. They come to Labin every year and are given stone blocks brought from an Istrian quarry to chisel. The resulting works, about 80 of them, are on display in the 40-hectares park, located just outside of town. 

Narodni muzej Labin (People’s Museum of Labin) is dedicated mostly to the town’s mining history and Labinska republika (see below). It includes a replica of the mining shaft.

Labinski krafi

Labin boasts a unique local delicacy, labinski krafi – nothing similar is found in Istria or Croatia. This pasta is similar to ravioli, but with a special filling made of cheese, vanilla, lemon zest, sugar, eggs, and rum-soaked raisins. Traditionally, it was eaten on special occasions and can work as both sweet and savory dish. That means that you can pair it with meat stew, or simply sprinkle it with some toasted breadcrumbs. It is relatively unknown even in Istria so Labin is almost the only place to try it and is available in most local restaurants. 

Walks and trekking

If you want to enjoy one of the most spectacular views in Istria, just climb to fortica, the highest part of the old town. Strolling from the old town to the charming local graveyard makes for another pleasant walk. A special treat is Sentona’s trail, named after Roman goddess of travellers. It leads from the old town to the nearby coastal town of Rabac, passing next to several streams and waterfalls. It isn’t nicknamed “Little Plitvice” for nothing! If you want to explore the inland, take the trail of Saint Barbara. It will take you to the nearby town of Raša, past an abandoned, but preserved coal mine shaft. 

Several serious races take place around Labin: the biggest Croatian Ultra trail race “100 miles of Istria” starts here. In October, a series of races called “Valamar Trail” happens around Labin and Rabac, and the runners often say those are the most beautiful races around.

Modernist architecture

Old Labin is your typical medieval Istrian town. The new town – called Podlabin or, in Italian, Pozzo Littorio – is a fine example of modernist architecture. The Italian fascist regime, which ruled Istria with an iron fist until their capitulation, had an undeniable knack for architecture. Wanting to create perfect settlements for workers and managers of Labin’s coal mines, Mussolini’s government brought in top-notch architects to bring their ideals to life. New Labin was inaugurated in the early 40s, inspired by antique Roman castrums. The idea was to have perfectly ordered streets organized around a central square, and simple, austere houses with an unmistakable Mediterranean touch. Rising above the town is the most recognizable local landmark, the šoht – local term for a headframe – which was recently refurbished after rusting for years, and now serves as a gathering point for the locals. 

For more remains of failed regimes, visit the already mentioned town of Raša, located only 5 kilometers away from Labin, and accesible by foot (the aforementioned saint Barbara’s trail), another attempt at an utopian miners’ town, built a couple of years before Labin. Although the place lost much of it past splendor, it still makes for a worthwhile visit. The attractions are the church of saint Barbara, the patron saint of miners, built to resemble an upturned coal wagon, and the miners’ museum. 

The beaches

Rabac, a town lying on the sea next to Labin, is the main resort place on the eastern coast of Istria (if not counting Opatija), but if you want to keep away from the crowded places, check the beaches the locals visit, such as Ravni. It requires a car – or, if you are willing to sweat a bit, a bike – ride on narrow and curvy roads. Another option is Prtlog, centuries ago the port of Labin, now a charming bay. If you’re willing to hike for a couple of hours, take the Terra Magica trail from Rabac. For a more bizarre swimming experience, drive to village Koromačno, where a cement-works towers over crystal clear waters. 

Where to stay in Labin

As most visitors to the area choose Rabac for a stay, Labin is not crowded like other Istrian tourist hotspots, but still offers comfy accomodation. The most renowned hotel is Peteani, located on the road leading up to the old town in a fancily refurbished old building. Its restaurant is also recommendable, and the terrace is a place to be. Other great options are hotel Loggia and Terra Residence bed & breakfast, both located in the old town. Loggia’s forte is its lounge bar, offering a variety of cocktails, whereas Terra Residence’s highlight is its charming back yard. 

Where to eat in Labin

For old school local food, such as pastas and stews, try Velo Kafe, located in the very centre of old town. For elaborate food, both local and international, alongside a spectacular view on Kvarner bay, go to restaurant Kvarner, also in the old town. If pizza is your choice, the most creative place in town, making true Neapolitan pizza, is pizzeria Rumore, located right next to Kvarner. Also recommendable are the restaurant of the aforementioned hotel Peteani, offering seasonal local groceries prepared with a modern twist, and Due Fratelli, run by a family of fishermen, offering seafood, grilled meat, and truffle-based dishes. Make sure to try fresh scampi caught in Kvarner bay, as they count among the best in the world. 

Top 3 day trips from Labin

Učka

Hiking lovers should not miss the opportunity to climb Istria’s highest mountain, which separates it from the rest of Croatia. Most people just go through the Učka tunnel, but going over it on foot or by car is a special treat. Učka is a nature park, and is well worth the half-hour drive from Labin. The trails are easily accessible by car, and there is plenty to explore. 

Cres

This trip also requires a car – less than half an hour away from Labin is Brestova, a ferry port from which you will land on Croatia’s biggest island in 20 minutes. Cres can take days to explore, but you can also see a lot in one day! Make sure you visit Lubenice (and maybe the beach below it, if you’re in good shape), go to Beli to learn more about griffon vultures. Just keep in mind that visiting the Cres town will definitely be worth it. Most of the centre of the town dates back centuries, and you can feel that in the atmosphere in the town.  

Ćićarija

Učka might be the highest mountain, but Ćićarija is the most remote and hence the wildest part of Istria. Located at the very north of the peninsula, right next to Učka, this mountanious plateau got its name from its inhabitants Ćići, who were Romanian-speaking shepherds. Their language is still spoken by a handful of people in remote villages, but the area is almost uninhabited – which only adds to its charm. If you like visiting villages where it seems that time has stopped – such as Lanišće Račja Vas, Brest or Slum – this is a place to be. There are also numerous hiking trails, the ones leading to Žbevnica peak being the most popular ones. Also worth checking out is konoba Lovac in Jelovice, offering superb local food. 

3 things you didn’t know about Labin

The Republic of Labin

Labin often gets credits as the place where the first anti-fascist uprising in history took place. After World War One and the dissolution of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, of which Istria was part, the area was annexed by Italy. The government, with the help of fascists squads, started to Italianise the ethnically mixed peninsula, provoking resistance from oppressed minorities. In this atmosphere, the decision of owners of coal mines in the Labin area to abolish the celebration of Candlemass in 1921- a holiday very important to the miners, as it symbolized light – stirred tensions among the workers.

These escalated when the fascists attacked and beat up miners’ leader, which drove the workers – of all ethnicities – to organize a general strike, and occupy the mines, attempting to run the production themselves. This prompted a response from the Italian authorities, who quickly overpowered the poorly organized miners. The “republic” lasted for one month only but left a proud legacy that lives to this day.

Wine rebellion

Long before they rose up against fascists, the people of Labin rebelled against – high prices of wine. Centuries ago, when Istria was ruled by Venetian Republic local wine producers were obliged to hand over a portion of their wine to the local podestat, representative of Venice, who would sell it to locals. In 1768, podestat’s wife decided to increase the price of wine, which led to an uprising, with the armed locals gathering in front of her house, eventually forcing her to reduce the price.

Matija Vlačić Ilirik

The most important Croatian protestant theologian, Matija Vlačić Ilirik, was born in Labin. Living in the turbulent 16th century, he advocated for a radical version of Lutheranism, often coming into conflict even with his fellow reformers. His version of Christianity, however, never caught on among his fellow Croats, but he is still appreciated as an important scholar. You can visit his birth place, a small palace in the old town, with an exhibiton dedicated to his life and works. 

More information

Official webpage of the town of Labin: http://www.labin.hr

Webpage of the tourist board of Labin and Rabac: https://www.rabac-labin.com/en

To follow the latest news from Labin, check out the dedicated TCN page.

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